280 VERDICT OX INDIA riots...(the bill was really copied from a similar measure in British India)* The pages of Hansard could not show a debate that was better balanced nor more moderate in temper than this, though feeling ran high.1 The result of the debate was thirty-four for the Ayes, twenty-one for the Xoes. Several significant amend- ments were championed by the opposition ; all were incorporated. It was an inspiring example of enlightened democracy—or perhaps one should say enlightened aristocracy (though the two are not necessarily opposed.) I saw Mysore from almost every angle—beginning at the top, in the Palace. Oh, that palace ! By day it is as indigestible, architecturally speaking, as a wedding cake, which it strongly resembles : it consists in layer upon layer of sugary decoration and creain-puff ornament. But at dusk the whole gigantic edifice is suddenly transformed, for they switch on the lights, and at once we are in fairyland. The absurd confectionery of the building melts away and we see only its skeleton, or rather its ghost, tricked out in a thousand necklaces of light that seem to float against the violet sky. suspended by invisible fingers. The Maharajah himself is a young man of considerable culture and transparent sincerity. He did not seem particularly ft pro- British '; he made several shrewd and frank criticisms of our policy; but he was certainly c pro-Mysore/ Most of his ministers would have distinguished themselves in any British Cabinet—through that, perhaps, is a double-edged compliment. They were chosen from widely different ranks of society. Several of them went out of their way to express to me their determination that Mysore should never fall into Congress clutches. "We will not tolerate Vakil Raj '2 was their way of putting it. I also saw Mysore from the bottom. I came to know the villagers, their wives and their children, in their homes, on their fields, during their hours of work and of play. And also during their hours of prayer, for on a certain hill not far from the city there was a holy man, a Yogi, who for thirty years had lived in a cave.. .or rather, a tiny hole in the rock. Pilgrims came to see him from far and wide ; I used to stand in their ranks, and nobody 1 Mysore Legislative Council Debates, voL 48, No, 11, July 2nd, 1943. * Lawyer rule.